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#11
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That said I think what you heard was a barking not a popping from #2 cyl. My guess is that #2 was one tooth more fuel not less fuel, more fuel making it hit harder and less noticable under load when all cyl's where getting more fuel and the difference was less noticable.
Later Bob |
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#12
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Not surprising that the injection pumps don't match.....they have been through a few evolutions to get to the current part numbers, bleeder valves have gone on some etc.
You mention opening the bleeder valve on the pony but didn't say whether you got air or water flow? If your not seeing bubbles with the radiator neck topped off (vent tube blocked) it's not likely you have combustion gas leakage. Pony motors are somewhat famous for being sediment traps to where little to no cooling, venting or flow is going on. Are you now running some version of stop leak in the cooling system? Forgot to mention....you can back off the temperature gauge probe to vent air at the head ....but can lead to more problems like stripping the nut or having the bulb froze in its fitting. Last edited by Old Magnet : 11-20-2009 at 09:08 PM. |
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#13
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yes, i put 2 jugs of bars stop leak in the coolant. hopefully this will plug any of the crack in the clutch housing coolant passage that i could not reach with the epoxy.
when i open the air bleeder at the pony, air does come out then coolant. it will do this with just the pony motor running. it will also do this with the main engine running, every 5 mins or so if i open the bleeder at pony it will hiss the air out and then a good stream of coolant. and i dont see any bubbles in coolant at radiator, looking with a light of course. the temp stays right at 190 degrees on the temp gauge. the temp doesnt fluctuate much at all. maybe i need to park up hill and try again to burp the air out. tommorows weather is going to be nice so i am going to run it for a couple hours pushing dirt and see how it works and to get the bars stop leak moving around in there. thank guys! |
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#14
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Quote:
regards Mike Last edited by Mike Meyer : 11-21-2009 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Add a picture |
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#15
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Hi Mike,
No, they are just screwed in fittings (welded in with the passage of time) and the lack of any antiseize on the threads. Seeing as how the gauges aren't working liberal heating with a torch is probably the only way you are going to break the bond. |
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#16
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well i ran the d4 today for about 5 hrs. no signs of coolant in the wet clutch!
yeah. everything work pretty good, still has a little popin out the exhaust, i need yet to adjust pump lifters. the one thing i noticed is the transmission fluid is going somewhere? no huge leaks from under neath. a drip or 2. i filled last time i used it and now in doesnot ever regester on the stick? my finals drives are full. could this have leaked into the clutch area? or any where else? thanks wibbdog. |
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#17
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Check the steering clutch compartments....if it's not showing up in the clutch that's the most likely next candidate.
Glad to hear it seems like at least one of the problems has been accomplished. |
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#18
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There is plugs under the steering clutch housing on each side to drain any buildup of oil in the steering clutches so remove them under the tractor housing and see. Lots of guys left them out if they weren,t working in water that high but with them in just check them often to see if there is oil buildup in them.
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#19
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Hello All
On our 7U farm cats we would take out the plugs and drill a hole for a good sized cotter key, that way any oil could seep out around the cotter key but very little dirt would get in. We don't do much high water farming so compartments stay dry. Bruce |
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#20
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Yes Bruce I have seen the plugs drilled and pins put in and many were done on dry clutched tractors and they drilled the flywheel bell housing plug and had one in.
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