Finally started to work on the 212 grader Questions---

[LeakyBoot]

First problem is its' little thing of when you hit a bump the engine goes back to idle. To correct you take the 4 bolts out of the round cover on the govener, where the throttle shaft passes thru, remove, reset cab throttle to idle and replace. last owner told me I had to do this every so often. I had a look today. It looks like there is enough play in and out on the shaft that it slips out of the slot way down in the hole it goes in the govener and lets the govener return to idle. What is the device to keep the in and out play taken up? Just under the round cover is a rubber like disc with two lips that pressed on the metal disc. Does that needsomething? Or maybe a spring should go on the end of the shaft to keep in tight? I'm thinking I might try a little shim between the rubber disc and the cover to see if that helped on endplay. I'm open to comment.

Next, the pony is hard to mave the levers. Under the lever on the left, looking at the levers, is a couple plugs. I removed both and no grease. What type goes in there and where do you put it in? The top plug? Anywhere else need lub. ? Thanks! LB

[SJ]

Remove the small plug in the front cover there and pour motor oil same as you use in the starting engine crankcase in the top of housing till you get it coming out that little front plug hole. It doesn,t take much oil in there to fill to the level plug in the front. Some guys on here say they put ATF (automatic trans oil) in there but motor oil is what,s normally used and is factory recommended. Keep an eye on that clutch oil as you may have a leak

[ccjersey]

Fill the top plug on the pinion clutch housing with light oil or ATF (or you can use up to 30 Wt if you want) until it runs out the check plug on the side of the housing. It has a drain for that compartment (another plug) on the lower part of the clutch housing.

There should also be some pivots to be oiled/greased on the pinion shift lever. You can open the cover over the pinion itself and spray it with rust buster/oil and engage/disengage it by pushing on one of the latches with something.

On the governor, it may be that the "seal" is worn so that there's too much clearance. Looks like it may be a simple O ring, but I can't tell from the parts book. I'm sure if you can add some thickness there,either from some shim or a new fat seal, you should be able to keep the control part of the shaft engaged in the governor control shaft slot.

[LeakyBoot]

Thanks for the help. I made a shim and installed to keep shaft tighter in the slot in govener. Another issue is the engine will not shut off. If you close throttle all the way it goes to a nice slow idle but does not shut down. Is this a problem with the position of the throttle linkage on side of the govener. I'm thinking about setting cab lever to all the way closed, then removing the lever clamped to the shaft on the govener, then opening the cab throttle alittle, then put it back on the shaft. Sound on the right track? LB

[SJ]

What you can do is pull the pin from the arm on the gov. and see if you can shut the engine off then by hand. If it works then yes you,ll probably need to adjust the arm to the linkage going to the cab.